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Caring for your rabbit

Rabbits are great indoor pets who can be litter-trained just like cats. Originally bred from the wild, tame rabbits are appealing pets and live on average from seven to 10 years. While smaller breeds such as dwarfs are generally more active and skittish, larger breeds such as lops can be more docile. Rabbits are better suited to children over the age of ten.

Like guinea pigs, rabbits are social animals and require companionship. They love the company of their long-eared siblings but may also live happily with other animals if socialised properly. To avoid injury though, care should be taken when introducing these animals to your rabbit.


Feeding

Vaccinate and desex
  Myxomatosis
   

Feeding your rabbit

As herbivores rabbits need a diet consisting almost entirely of vegetable matter. Variety is essential, and the food offered must be fresh. An ideal diet consists of 85% hay and 15% green veggies with occasional fruit.

Green leafy vegetables such as Asian greens and endive (not lettuce and cabbage as these can cause diarrhoea) are in fact preferred, while fruit (mostly apples and pears) and root vegetables (such as carrots) should only be fed in small amounts.

The hay portion of the diet can also be supplemented with a bowl of oaten chaff. Fresh water must be supplied via a drip feed bottle rather than in a bowl which can be easily contaminated or tipped over.

Avoid feeding your pet pellets (as they can cause dental problems) and mixes which are high in grains or which contain molasses.

For rabbits, an essential ingredient to ensure their dietary health is grass or grass hay. This will allow your bunny extended periods of happy chewing which is necessary to wear down their continuously-growing teeth, and thereby helping to prevent dental disease.

Chewing on grass or grass hay also helps keep your intelligent friend occupied and prevent boredom. The high fibre content of grass and grass hay is also crucial for normal gastrointestinal motility.

To ensure your rabbits have a healthy 'balanced' diet, you should provide:

  • A constant supply of good quality fresh grass or grass hay - e.g. Timothy, oaten, wheaten, pasture, paddock, meadow or ryegrass hays. Rabbits should not be fed lucerne (alfalfa) or Clover hays as they are too high in protein and calcium.

    Grass or grass hay is paramount in providing sufficient fibre for gastrointestinal health and encouraging chewing for long periods of time for healthy teeth.

  • A dietary source of Vitamin C (for guinea pigs) because, like humans, guinea pigs cannot synthesise Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) from other food substances.

    While this is usually supplied by fresh leafy green veggies, it is a good idea to feed your guinea pig small quantities of vitamin C rich foods such as citrus or kiwi fruit (commercial Vitamin C supplements added to drinking water or commercial feeds are not reliable sources of vitamin C).

  • Plenty of fresh water supplied via drip feed bottle.

Keep feeds and feeding habits consistent. Any changes to the diet must be made gradually, over a two to three week period, to minimise digestive upsets.

Do not feed your pet: cereals, grains, nuts, seeds, corn, beans, peas, breads, biscuits, sweets, sugar, breakfast cereals, chocolate or any garden plants that are toxic to rabbits.



 


Vaccinate

All rabbits adopted from the RSPCA have been vaccinated against Calicivirus disease. This will protect it from this disease for 10 to 12 months at which time your rabbit will need another vaccination.

Make sure you keep your vaccination record and present it to your veterinarian when your rabbits next vaccination is due. Note: Myxomatosis vaccine is available for rabbits in England but is not available in Australia.


Desex

Your rabbit (male or female) has had surgery to desex it. You need to check the wound area daily to make sure that it has not become infected or swollen. If this occurs, you should take your bunny back to the RSPCA immediately.

The sutures, or stitches, do not have to be removed but will dissolve over time. When you get home with your rabbit continue to monitor it to make sure that it is behaving and eating normally. 

A post-operative rabbit should not stop eating. Fresh Dandelion leaves are always appreciated!


A green mark has been tattooed in your rabbit’s left ear to indicate it has been desexed.


What is Myxomatosis and how do I protect my rabbit from it?

Myxomatosis is caused by the myxoma virus, a poxvirus spread between rabbits by close contact and biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. 

The virus causes swelling and discharge from the eyes, nose and anogenital region of infected rabbits.  Most rabbits die within 10-14 days of infection however highly virulent strains of the myxoma virus may cause death before the usual signs of infection have appeared.

Myxomatosis was introduced to Australia in 1950 to reduce pest rabbit numbers. The virus initially reduced the wild rabbit population by 95% but since then resistance to the virus has increased and less deadly strains of the virus have emerged. 

Pet rabbits do not possess any resistance to myxomatosis and mortality rates are between 96-100%.  With such a poor prognosis treatment is not usually recommended.

There are two vaccinations against myxomatosis, however these are not available in Australia. Thus the only way to prevent infection is to protect your pet rabbits from biting insects such as fleas and mosquitoes. Put mosquito netting around your rabbit’s hutch or keep your rabbits indoors.

If your rabbits are allowed to exercise outside avoid letting them out in the early morning or late afternoon when more mosquitoes are more numerous.  You can use Revolution (Selamectin) or Advantage (Imidocloprid) for flea prevention, but you must check first with your vet for dosages.  Do not use Frontline (Fipronil) as this has been associated with severe adverse reactions in rabbits.

If your pet rabbit does develop myxomatosis, the kindest thing to do is to have it euthanased. Treatment is rarely successful, even if commenced early in the infection and the course of disease is very painful and stressful. 

Thoroughly disinfect your rabbit hutch, water bottles and food bowls with household bleach, rinsing it off so that it cannot be ingested by any other rabbits. 

Bringing a new rabbit home is not recommended for at least four months after a case of myxomatosis as the virus is able to survive in the environment for some time.












  Tags: rabbit, bunny, feeding, vaccination, desex, myxomatosis
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